Avoiding a hair design hiccup

The boys from Waterman and Webb come to the rescue and help you with any hair design issues you’re having with your clients.

  1. Some hair types are better to work with than others. Afro and darker toned hair are preferred because the patterns are a lot more visible and will look a lot sharper. Blonde and light-toned hair is a little more difficult because your lines can get lost and are not as visible, however you can still create a good pattern if the hair is not graded too short.
  2. We use the Wahl senior clippers to create the outlines (you can use any bulk clipper that you have) and then we bring out the mini clippers to refine our work – we use a Wahl T-Blade Detailer. To finish, we like to lubricate the hair using shaving gel or olive oil spray and then add touches with a cutthroat razor. We then like to apply a small amount of aftershave to freshen the skin once the look is complete.
  3. Zero gapping your clippers will maximise the sharpness of your lines. The contact from your clippers to the head is a lot closer which results in sharper outlines. Don’t overdo it! If the cutting teeth are overlapped, you are more likely to nip someone. If you look on YouTube, several videos show you how to do this. All barbers in our shop have one pair of clippers that are zero gapped for maximum sharpness on their haircuts.
  4. Visualise your pattern before you execute. Always use a canvas grade such as a #1 grade or #2 grade and then fade your work if desired after. Another good way to create a top pattern, especially if you haven’t done it before, is to draw it on paper beforehand. You and the customer can agree on it and then you have a visual guide to look at. This will also help you to decide if the pattern is a full head design or just a side design.

If you have any questions or need help with anything from our team of professionals, then please get in touch with The Barber Magazine team.

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